Vital Statistics | Five Days Trekking in the Annapurna Foothills

South Col Expeditions trekked the Annapurna foothills for five days in the last week of December 2016. The vital statistics on this route are extremely interesting!The route map is given above in blue.  Here are some snapshots from the day to day statistics-

Kande to Austrian Camp to Tolka

Tolka to Landrung down to the river and up to Ghandrung

Ghandrung to Tadapani

Tadapani to Ghorepani

Ghorepani down to Ulleri and then Hillay

Annapurna Foothills Trek | Poon Hill and Ghandrung 2016

The village of Landrung with Annapurna south and Huinchuli

South Col Expeditions did the beautiful five days Annapurna Foothills Trek in the last week of December 2016. The weather was perfect and so were the views Some photographs from this trek are below:

Evening Poon Hill view - Annapurna I, South, Huinchuli and Machhapuchare on the right

Dhaulagiri and Tukuche from the Superview lodge Ghorepani

Sunset at Poon Hill

Annapurna South from the forest between Deorali and Ghorepani

Descending from Landrung - the right fork goes to New bridge and Chomrong while the left
leads to the river and then up to Ghandrung

The group at Ghorepani

To do this trek with us in 2017 do visit  http://www.southcol.com/treks-nepal/annapurna-foothills-trek-december-17th-to-23rd-2017/

Ghandrung - Ghorepani - Poon Hill Trek | Peakfinder Screen shots

The five day Annapurna foothills trek by South Col  happens every year in December and is extremely popular. It has some of the best views, excellent lodges, good meals and is only for five days.

Here are some of the Peakfinder screen shots of the views along the trek.

Austrian camp above Kande looking north east

Austrian Camp above Kande looking east

Tolka View

Ghandrung

Tadapani looking north east

Poon Hill looking north west

Poon Hill looking north and east

Pokhara View

To join our trek in December 2016 please do visit http://www.southcol.com/treks-nepal/trekking-annapurna/

The Annapurna Range from the North and South

The south side of the Annapurnas on top as photographed from a flight above Pokhara town and the north side below photographed from the Kang La Pass (5320 metres) - click to enlarge

On my last trek to the valleys of Nar and Phu in Nepal, I crossed the Kang la Pass ( 5320 metres) and descended into the Manang valley to join the famed Annapurna circuit route. On that sunny morning, I had a dress circle view of the Annapurna peaks from the northern side. I shot a panorama of the view and later on compared it to the view from the south which most of us are familiar with. The two views are given above for comparison.

The post below covers some of these great mountains and their first ascents. The data is courtesy the data base of Elizabeth Hawley.

1960 Dhaulagiri 8167m / 26,795ft

Expedition: Swiss / International

Leaders: Eiselin & Forrer

Summiteers: Dienberger, Diener, Schelbert, Vaucher, Weber, Sherpas ND & ND

Dhaulagiri Poon Hill View

1964 Annapurna South 7219m / 23,684ft

Expedition: Japanese

Leaders: Higuchi & Uyeo

Summiteers: Sherpa MT

1950 Annapurna I 8091m / 26,545ft

Expedition: French

Leaders: Herzog

Summiteers: Herzog, Lachenal

Annapurna I from the south - this was not the route climbed by Herzog in 1950 but by Bonington's team  in 1970

1962 Mardi Himal 5587m / 18,330ft

Expedition: British

Leaders: JOM Roberts

Summiteers: Sherpas AT, TN

1964 Machhapuchhare 6993m / 22,943ft

Expedition: British

JOM Roberts, attempt. Did not summit, got to within 20m of summit and turned back. Mountain now closed to expeditions.

Machhapuchhare from the Annapurna south base camp

1965 Gangapurna 7455m / 24,459ft

Expedition: West German

Leaders: Hauser & Greissl

Summiteers: Ehlers, Ekkerlein, Kollensperger, Reismueller, Seibold,

Wuensche, Sherpas - AT, PN & PD

1961 Annapurna III 7555m / 24,787ft

Expedition: Indian

Leaders: Kohli

Summiteers: Gyatso & Sherpa GS

 1955 Annapurna IV 7525m / 24,688ft

Expedition: West German

Leaders: Steinmetz

Summiteers: Biller & Wellenkamp

1960 Annapurna II 7937m / 26,041ft

Expedition: British

Leaders: JOM Roberts

Summiteers: Bonnington, Grant & Sherpa AN

1974 Lamjung Himal 6983m / 22,910ft

Expedition: British

Leaders: Burgess

Summiteers: Chamberlain, Isherwood, Neame & Scott

View 300 metres below Kang La including Dhaulagiri and the Chulu peaks - click to enlarge

1956 Manaslu 8163m / 26,781ft

Expedition: Japanese

Leaders: Maki

Summiteers: Higeta, Imanishi, Kato & Sherpa GN

1960 Himalchuli 7893m / 25,896ft

Expedition: Japanese

Leaders: Yamada & Miyashita

Summiteers: Harada, Nakazawa & Tanabe

1960 Baudha 6672m / 21,890ft

Expedition: Japanese

Leaders: Iso

Summiteers: Kobayashi & Shibata

South Col Expeditions treks every year in the Annapurna Hmal. Join us!

Moods of Macchapuchhare

One the trekking trail near the village of Dhampus

The Fishtail Mountain of Nepal Macchapuchhare has not been climbed. Attempted in 1962 by a British team led by Jimmy Roberts,  the climbers failed to make the summit. Soon after the Nepal Government put the mountain "out of bounds" and no further expeditions were permitted.

I first saw the mountains of the Nepal Himalaya from the lawns of the Crystal Hotel in Pokhara. It was December 1978 and in the grey light of a chilly dawn with my first and new SLR camera, I attempted to take some photographs. The garden was full of red poinsettia blossoms but in the pre-dawn light they looked dark crimson, almost black. And then behind them in that half light, there was the Fishtail mountain, Machhapuchhare, her razor sharp ridges slicing the inky blue sky.  Next  to her impossibly high were the Annapurnas and to the west peeking over the lower hills was Dhaulagiri. I have seen variations of this Himalayan vision in different incarnations all through the years, and it never fails to arouse a feeling of awe and amazement each and every time.

This essay shows the some of the moods of this iconic mountain:

Winter sunset Pothana

Unexpected spring snowfall Annapurna Base Camp

Telephoto close up near Doban on the ABC trek

On the trail between Upper Sinuwa and Bamboo

Dusk Annapurna Base Camp

Moon rise Macchpaucchare base camp

For views like these join any of our Annapurna, Mustang, Poon Hill trek this year!

Visit http://www.southcol.com/treks-nepal/ for more information.

The Nar Phu Valleys of Nepal - II

In October 2015, South Col Expeditions trekked to the valleys of Nar and Phu bordering Tibet in remote Nepal. The first part of the route and day wise schedule is here
http://www.sujoyrdas.blogspot.in/2015/12/the-nar-phu-valleys-of-nepal-i.html
This is the second and concluding part.

October 5 2015
Phu to Nar Phedi
The morning was cloudy once again and we left at 7 10 am. The lodge was very expensive charging around Rs 750 for a dal Bhat possibly one of the highest in Nepal. We retraced our steps down the valley and this time took the lower route back across the river. We made good time and got into Kyang by 9 50 am.

After a brief stop we set off for Chyakhu and got there by 11 05 am. Chyakhu was busy as some European groups had stopped there for lunch. We saw some yaks fighting in the meadows near the tea house. For non camping groups Chyakhu is a good option after Meta as there is a small house with two rooms which can be used for the night next to the tea shop. From Chyakhu we continued down the valley in beautiful autumn light and got to the trail junction of Nar at around 1 35 pm. From the junction there is a steep downhill over a very stony path - it was also extremely dusty and windy and blew my cap and pack cover off. The bridge was reached in about 25 minutes and then there is another uphill climb to the monastery which takes around 20 minutes. The monastery is brand new and the rooms are also excellent the best we have had on this trek so far!

Phu Village

Phu to Kyang 2 hrs 30 min to 3 hrs; Kyang to Chyakhu 1 hr to 1 hr 15 min; Chyakhu to Nar trail junction 1 hr 30 min to 1 hr 45 min; Nar trail junction to bridge 20 min to 25 min; bridge to monastery 20 min to 30 min.

October 6 2015
Nar Phedi to Nar village.

Doorway Nar Phedi Monastery

We left from Nar Phedi monastery around 8 10 am. Ajmal had decided to go down to Koto Qupar as he was not feeling very well and we gave Sushil one of the porters with him. I was sorry to see him go but I realised that it was the best decision for him and he was not really enjoying the uphill climbs due to his poor health. Our climb was relentless for the first one hour and we reached a small pass. From here the climb continued uphill and in about forty minutes reached another high point which showed up as 3995 metres on my altimeter . From here there was a very fine view of Kangaru and Pisang peak was in front of us for most of the way.  The trail then levelled off for some time and passed right below Pisang before climbing up to another small pass. The trail then eased off and was passed through a gate which had probably been erected to keep the yak and sheep within their pens. Within 15 minutes of passing through this gate, the path reached a level plateau with ten magnificent chortens against a backdrop of the snow peaks and the barren cliffs. 

Chortens before Nar Village with Kangaru Himal

It was truly a magnificent sight and the artists who had built them so many years ago on this windswept exposed plateau must have been truly great men! From here  a short ten minute walk brings you to the entrance of Nar village.

Nar Phedi to 1st pass 1 hr; 1st pass to 2nd pass 30 min; 2nd pass to plateau with chortens 1 hr 15 min; chortens to Nar village 15 to 30 min. Total time would be between 3 to 3.5 hours.

Travels in Nar village
We stayed at the Shanti lodge which is one of the older lodges in the village. The owner Shanti Galay was extremely helpful and friendly.  I knew that sometime in the 1980s King Birendra had given permission to a photographer Nick Wheeler to document the villagers of Nar and Phu. The book they brought out was called Cloud Dwellers of the Himalaya now sadly out of print. In 2006 Wanda Viequex had visited Nar and Phu with a copy of the book and had managed to show the photographs to many of the villagers who were able to identify themselves so many years ago. In particular she visited the home of "cover" girl Pema Bhutti who was possibly in her seventies at that time.  I was  interested to find out if she was still alive nine years later  in 2015 and also visit her house. Shanti directed us to her house in the village. It was the harvesting season. All the fields had been harvested of barley and on every roof top of every home threshing and winnowing of the grain was taking place. Whole families were busy with this all day and it presented a spectacular sight.  We found the house and found Pema Bhutti's daughter and husband with their grandchildren.  We learnt that Pema had passed away in 2008 after suffering from cancer. They knew about the book but did not have any copy with them . They also confirmed that none of the villagers in Nar would have a copy. 

 Pema 's daughter Pemba Chenzom and husband Mingmar Copel Gurung gave my guide Shyam and me tea in their kitchen. They wondered if it was possible to get some sponsorship for their grandchildren to go to school in Kathmandu.  
From here we continued to walk through the village photographing the houses, harvesting, the village folk which was extremely interesting. Below in the fields of Nar we saw most of the cattle were grazing including yaks, horses and sheep. It was a beautiful sunny day with the peaks above the valley, the pleasant autumn sunshine, the harvesting in full force and the roof tops of the three monasteries glinting in the mellow evening sunshine. At around 4 pm I decided to walk back around 20 minutes the plateau with the ten chortens. The evening sunlight had illuminated them beautifully backed by the peaks of Chombu and Kangaru. We were also able to see Pisang peak above us and Chulu East a popular trekking peak on the Annapurna circuit. Shyam and I sat  on the grass for some time and savoured this idyllic surrounding. Nar is a village where I could happily stay a few days interacting with the village folk and photographing their life and fast vanishing culture.

Harvesting Nar Village

October 7 2015
Nar to Kangla Phedi
The morning dawned clear but I was greeted with the news that one of our group Ashutosh was not feeling well- he had been suffering from a throat infection right through the trek and was now quite breathless. He took the decision sadly to descend to Koto Qupar by making a night stop at Meta. We were sad to see him go but realised in his present condition crossing the pass would be both difficult and risky. After breakfast I went down with Shyam to see the old Samten  Pelgye Ling monastery which had some remarkable old statues. 

Interior Samten Ling monastery

A nun from Kathmandu showed us around - interestingly she had been to India! We had an early lunch and left Nar at around 12 noon. We left through the exit gate of the village and started a climb out of the valley. After about half an hour the gradient eased a bit and we found ourselves in a broad valley with Pisang Peak and it razor sharp ridges on the left. The trail continued to climb gently through yak pastures and high above we spotted two herds of blue sheep , one of them quite large around thirty animals high above the  valley floor. The path then went around the hill and from the viewpoint before going down we saw Kangguru, the summit of Manaslu, Ngadi Chuli and much closer the top of Pisang Peak. We soon reached a small campsite with a broken down stone shelter which is the Kangla Phedi Base camp. The beginning of the trail to the pass could be seen clearly over moraine and scree slopes.  Just behind our camp to the east was a small snowy peak which could not be identified. We planned to start at 5 am tomorrow so as to cross the pass between 8 and 9 am and hopefully get the wonderful view of the northern sweep of the Annapurnas.

Night sky and the Milky way at Nar Phedi

Nar to Kangla Phedi 2 hrs to 2 hrs 30 min

October 8 2015
Kangla Phedi to Kangla pass to Ngawal
The night was very cold in the tent, especially my toes which I could not warm up despite the best of efforts. I got up around 3 45 am and started the laborious job of packing up the sleeping bag and then my rucksack. After this I stepped out at around 4 15 am and began to dismantle my tent . Using gloves and a headlamp it was tough going and the minus 8 Celsius temperature did not help matters very much. The fly sheet was frozen and I had to pack it up with the ice hoping to dry it out in the sun in Ngawal this afternoon. The kerosene stove was purring in the kitchen shed and we all had hot coffee and muesli with milk. We finally got away around 5 35 am.  The trail initially left the campsite and started a slow climb upwards to a small bridge in around 20 minutes. From the bridge the path climbed relentlessly through a series of switch backs  until it reached a small chorten in about an hour and a half. From this high point looking east we could see over the valley the peaks of Chombu, Kanguru, Manaslu, Ngadi Chuli , Himal Chuli and the sheer cliffs of Pisang peak. To help in the snow trail markers in orange and blue had been positioned at regular intervals , a welcome feature. This morning was perfect as there was not a cloud in sight and no wind or snow. The trail continued past a few false summits until it reached an emerald green glaciated lake at 5200 metres in about 2 hrs 45 min from Kangla Phedi. The pass was visible from the lake another 30 min away. We eventually got to the top around 8 50 am to be rewarded with a spectacular view of the entire northern sweep of the Annapurnas including Lamjung Himal and in the far right corner Dhaulagiri. Below us we could see quite clearly the new road which was now being used by jeeps and buses connecting Mañang to Besisahar . The airstrip of  Hongde was also visible and to the west of that was the village of Ngawal our destination  for the day.

View from Kang La

We left the pass around 9 30 am and headed down one of the steepest scree slopes which I have encountered. For an hour we had to gingerly make our way down testing each steep and using our trekking poles for support. I wondered how difficult this descent would be in snowy conditions. After an hour and a half we reached the grassy slopes and began to descend on a well trodden path towards the valley. From the pass to Ngawal was a drop of around 1700 metres in around 3 to 4 hours which is a knee crunching descent and we were all feeling it towards the end. In around 2 hrs and 30 min we could see the village of Ngawal below us but it was still an hour away. Finally around 1 15 pm we entered Ngawal having walked for around 8 hours without any meals or major stops. The pleasures of the Annapurna circuit like a hot shower, good meals and comfortable beds awaited us!

Lake on the trail to Pisang

Kangla Phedi to 1st chorten 1hr 30 min; 1st chorten to emerald lake 1 hr 15 min; emerald lake to Kangla pass 30 min. Total time from Kangla Phedi to the pass would be between 3 to 4 hours depending on walking speeds and stops.

Kangla pass to Ngawal 3 hrs 30 minutes to 4 hours.

The Nar Phu Valleys of Nepal - I

Our team on top of Kangla pass (5320m)

South Col Expeditions trekked the Nar and Phu valleys of Nepal in Sept-Oct 2015. In this two part post the route and terrain is described for future trekkers to this region.

Click on map to see larger image

September 30th 2015
We left Kathmandu at around 8 am for Besisahar. Lok was lucky to arrange a micro bus for us as he had managed to get some diesel given the present difficult situation in Nepal. Due to the fuel shortage the roads were reasonably empty and we made good time getting into Besisahar by 1 . 15 pm. There was a huge traffic jam at the entrance of the town and by the time we reached the jeep stand it was 2.30 pm. There was a premium for the jeep to Koto Qupar- what would normally cost Rs 20,000 was quoted at Rs 33,000 citing the fuel shortage as an excuse. We left Besisahar at  3 pm and headed up the Marsyandi. I was quite shocked to see the devastation near Bhulbhule. With Chinese aid a new Hydel project and dam was being constructed.  Large chunks of the hillside had been decimated to make room for concrete buildings. Debris from the ash mud and stone chips had pullout end the Marsyandi changing its colour from jade green to ash grey. The narrow trail masquerading for a road was full of boulders and fast flowing streams rushing across. The circuit had changed beyond recognition. No wonder very few trekkers walk the route right now. We reached Syange at around 5 30 pm and decided to call it a day. The Waterfall lodge was very scenically situated right on top of the roaring Marsyandi. Tomorrow we would get to Koto Qupar.

The Waterfall Guest House 

October 1 2015

We left Syange at 8 am. The rough trail continued and we reached Jagat in around 30 min. The jeep was only able to do between 6 and 8 km per hour due the terrible condition of the road. We reached Dharapani at around 10 45 am and stopped to show our ACAP permits at the check post. We saw the trail coming down from bimthang and the Manaslu circuit towards the east. We left Dharapani after a cup of tea and headed up the Marsyandi and eventually got down from the jeep at 12 20 pm about half an hour from Koto Qupar and walked the remaining distance. The valley had now opened up and we saw Annapurna  2 in front of us and Manaslu to the east. We stayed at Hotel Himlung in Koto and we had the lodge to ourselves. Krishnan and I walked upto the next village Chame  in about 30 min on an acclimatisation walk and came back in around an hour.  I cleared the permits at the check post so that next morning we could leave without delay. No further news on the fuel crisis hope it would get settled very soon. We passes around 25 Trekkers most of whom were doing the Annapurna circuit a far cry from the number of trekkers who used to do this route earlier.

Annapurna II near Koto Qupar

October 2, 2015

Koto Qupar to Meta

We left Koto at 6 45am - a record for South Col as far as early starts are concerned. We immediately descended to a suspension bridge which we crossed and starting walking on a well maintained trail which hugged the river. After about an hour and 45 minutes we reached another suspension bridge which we crossed and started walking up the right bank of the river. In about an hour from the bridge we reached a small house with an ACAP sign board for Naar Phu. Ten minutes away was another small house where our group had stopped for an early lunch as there were no more tea shops on the way. We had a one hour lunch break and then started for Dharamsala. Five minutes away was a third house where a German team were having their lunch. The trail continued to wind its way up the gorge and fifty minutes away we reached another suspension bridge which took us back to the left bank of the river. Soon after we came to a small cave marked Odar which can double up as a camping spot in an emergency. The trail then went down and within a few minutes another suspension bridge appeared with a sign to the right pointing to a hot spring. We took the left trail and finally got to Dharamsala at 1 20 pm. We found a new shelter had been constructed at Dharamsala but there was no tea shop for meals.

Waterfall across the trail near Dharamsala

We stopped for ten minutes and then started the climb to Meta at 1 30pm. The first thirty minutes followed the river climbing up and down but then started a steep 50 minute push up the hill on a steep gradient which took us to a pass on top of the hill. From the pass Meta was 10 minutes and we reached at 3 15 pm ending a long day. I was surprised to find at least four to five lodges in Meta 3600 metres with at least forty beds. If you can make the push from Dharamsala  I recommend staying at Meta so you save a night of camping. I found that the Nepal telecom Namaste network working in Meta but the signal was weak.

Koto Qupar to 2nd suspension bridge 1 hr 45 min; 2nd suspension bridge to 1st House with ACAP sign Nar Phu 1 hr; 1st house to 3rd suspension bridge 50 min; 3rd suspension bridge to Dharamsala 1 hr 30 min; Dharamsala to Meta 1 hr 45 min to 2 hrs. 

October 3 2015

Meta to Kyang
We left Meta at 8 10 am. In the morning I used my peak finder app and found that the big peak from Meta to the south was Lamjung Himal and not Annapurna I I as claimed by the locals. The path out of Meta was well defined and it was not necessary to cross any moraines as mentioned in the Lonely Planet guide! In 30 minutes we reached a junction with the trail ahead going to Phu and the sharp left trail heading to Nar. The junction is marked. Below us all along this section of the walk we saw the new monastery of Nar Phedi perched on a ledge below the long climb to Nar. The trail continued following the river valley making gentle ups and downs until it reached a clearing with some abandoned stone shelters which was called Jhunum about one hour 50 min from Meta. From Jhunum we crossed a suspension bridge over the river and made a climb to reach Chyakhu in 50 min. 

View from the trail before Junam

There is a small tea shop in Chyakhu where food is available and it is also possible to stay. It is very expensive dal Bhat was Rs 650! The place is surrounded with abandoned Khampa ruins and the icefall of Kangaru peak and the peak can be seen from this section of the trail. From here the trail climbs up to a pass and then drops down across another suspension bridge to start climbing again. From here the plains of Kyang are visible about 10 min below. There is a small hut in Kyang but no food is available. We camped at Kyang as we had tents making the next day to Phu much shorter. Water is available close to the hut and there are also a large number of abandoned Khampa settlements here.

Meta to 1st trail junction 30 min; 1st trail junction to Jhunum 1 hr 20 min; Jhunum to Chyakhu 50 min to 1 hr; Chyakhu to Kyang 1 hr 15 min to 1 hr 30 min.
October 4
Kyang to Phu
The night was cloudy in Kyang and I came out of my tent at around 8 pm- managed some shots of the stars until the clouds closed in again. The morning was also cloudy with low lying clouds on the adjacent ridges. We saw that Pisang Peak had a fresh dusting of snowfall. We left Kyang at around 7 30 am and in 30 minutes reached a bridge over the river. Do not cross the bridge but carry on along the right bank. The narrow trail continued to hug the river as the gorge became narrower. In an hour and ten minutes you reach a new house which is lying vacant- it could be intended as a future tea shop. The trail soon comes to a second bridge - there is a path of the other side which also leads to Phu. We continued along the right bank without crossing the bridge and the trail soon climbed high above the river. The rock faces had now begun to resemble Mustang and at a point around three hours from Kyang the canyon narrows and the river flows through some spectacular looking rock spires. The trail then climbs steeply for around 15 min to reach the Phupi Gyalgu gate - the entrance of Phu. The trail then crosses a ruined Dzong and then some chorten said painted in Mustang like colours and blue painted mani stones. Finally it crosses a suspension bridge and reaches Phu village ( 4060m).

Phu village

 It was the harvesting season in Phu and every house was threshing paddy in the open courtyards outside. We visited the spectacular Tashi Lhakhang Gompa at 4150 m above the village but sadly it was locked and we could not get in. The peak of Kanggaru could be seen opposite the village which is but a mere extension of Mustang.

Kyang to 1st bridge 30 min; 1st bridge to new house 40 min; new house to bottom of climb to the Phu gate 1 hr 10 min; Phu gate to Phu village 30 to 40 min

To be continued next week...